Difference between revisions of "Walls and insulation"
From Green Garage Detroit
(→Annex side) |
|||
| Line 71: | Line 71: | ||
* On the historic side, we installed 16" of insulation (R=100) above the original roof; 81/2" in the walls (R=45); 2" under the floors (R=15). | * On the historic side, we installed 16" of insulation (R=100) above the original roof; 81/2" in the walls (R=45); 2" under the floors (R=15). | ||
* On the annex side, we installed 10" of insulation (R=60) on the top of the original metal roof and 8 1/2" in the walls (R=45). | * On the annex side, we installed 10" of insulation (R=60) on the top of the original metal roof and 8 1/2" in the walls (R=45). | ||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
| − | |||
<br style="clear:both;"/> | <br style="clear:both;"/> | ||
Latest revision as of 20:16, 6 August 2014
return to As Built
Contents
Sustainability goals for our wall system
Because we were designing a Super Insulated Building Envelope, our wall system design was extremely important. Our goals included:
- Minimize thermal bridging and air infiltration.
- Reduce energy use of existing building by at least 70%.
- Use envelope and insulation materials that do not harm building occupants or the environment.
- Use envelope and insulation materials that are existing, recycled, and/or local materials wherever possible.
Wall design
Historic side
Built second wall inside the brick/block walls to accommodate super insulation while preserving historic appearance and keep block from entering waste stream. Modeled wall system with WUFI software to determine how best to achieve high R-value and also deal with moisture within our super insulated wall assembly design.
- Historic brick/block layer 8" thick
- Weep holes at base of wall to drain moisture from behind masonry layer
- Drainage plane 1" thick
- This air layer helps control thermal bridging by separating the inner wall from the outer wall
- Also helps control moisture build up in the wall by providing a path for condensation or rain water to run down to weep holes
- Furring blocks 1" thick
- Controls thermal bridging by holding stud wall away from drainage plane behind masonry
- Polyiso rigid foam board 2" thick, 2 layers with staggered seams (total of 4" thick)
- Cellulose blown-in insulation (and 3 1/2" wood studs) 5" thick
- Absorbs and dissipates moisture like a living organism
- Contains fire retardant and mold inhibitors
- Gypsum wallboard 1/2" thick (made from flyash, 100% recycled material)
- Total thermal resistance for the walls is R-42
- Total wall thickness is 18.5".
Use of homasote
Homasote (made from 100% recycled newspaper) covers a portion of the walls in the historic side of the building, specifically the upper half of the walls in the meeting rooms. This surface is perfect to tack things up on.
Annex side
The walls on the annex side were built just like the historic side walls.
- Historic brick/block layer 8" thick
- Weep holes at base of wall to drain moisture from behind masonry layer
- Drainage plane 1" thick
- This air layer helps control thermal bridging by separating the inner wall from the outer wall
- Also helps control moisture build up in the wall by providing a path for condensation or rain water to run down to weep holes
- Furring blocks 1" thick
- Controls thermal bridging by holding stud wall away from drainage plane behind masonry
- Polyiso rigid foam board 2" thick, 2 layers with staggered seams (total of 4" thick)
- Cellulose blown-in insulation (and 3 1/2" wood studs) 5" thick
- Absorbs and dissipates moisture like a living organism
- Contains fire retardant and mold inhibitors
- Gypsum wallboard 1/2" thick (made from flyash, 100% recycled materials)
- Total thermal resistance for the walls is R-42
- Total wall thickness is 18.5"
The importance of insulation
Insulation was the most important element in the energy plan for our building. Some points about our use of insulation include:
- We purchased once-used polyiso insulation (rigid board) at the Insulation Depot in Massachusetts. They sent it to us in trucks and we stored it in the center of the historic side of the building until we were ready to install it.
- We used 3 types of insulation in our walls: polyiso, cellulose and spray foam.
- On the historic side, we installed 16" of insulation (R=100) above the original roof; 81/2" in the walls (R=45); 2" under the floors (R=15).
- On the annex side, we installed 10" of insulation (R=60) on the top of the original metal roof and 8 1/2" in the walls (R=45).
Resources
- Insulation specialist
- Byczynski, Ken (Building Science Consultant)
- Kenco Energy Services
- kensr.kenco@gmail.com
- 248-895-8161 - Mobile
- 7273 Tucker Road
- Holly, MI 48442
- Insulation Supplier
- David Volpe
- Insulation Depot/ (Used rigid insulation supplier)
- 508.532.1851
- Comparisons of insulation
- Insulation Comparison from UK
- Fiber Glass vs.Cellulose Comparison - NAIMA (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association)
- Long List of Insulation Material Comparison - U.S. Green Building Council's Green Home Guide
- Rocky Mountain Institute Insulation Guide for Home Envelopes
- Shurcliff, Wm. Super Insulated Houses and Air-to-Air Heat Exchangers
- Wall Systems
- Building Science Insight 001: The Perfect Wall
- Oak Ridge National Lab Wall Insulation Guidelines ...nice picture of basic system.
- Oak Ridge National Lab Wall Moisture Insulation Guidelines by Climate
- Vapor Barrier Guidelines Put the vapor barrier on the warm side of the exterior structure.
- Wall System R Value Calculator
See also
- Super Insulated Building Envelope
- Flooring
- Passive design
- Roof
- Windows
- Blower Door Test (Here's where we determined if we met our air leakage goals.)
